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by Charles Paddington

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Amanemu

Shima

Japan

A remote hilltop surrounded by forests and providing a view to Ago Bay where Japan`s famous female pearl divers, the Ama, are on the underwater hunt for pearls for 3000 years. All that three hours by train from Kyoto, four hours from Tokyo, off the usual tourist track. Well, it takes courage for a hotelier to open an exceptional property there and asking for 2000 Euro a night. The ultra-luxury-group Aman had this courage and opened Amanemu in 2016: A little village with 30 suites and villas all equipped with private onsens (japanese hot baths) and unspoiled views of the Ago Bay. Amanemu was designed by Kerry Hill architects. The resort takes inspiration from traditional Minka-style villas: There are expanses of wood, bamboo and stone, pavilion-style structures and garden courtyards and verandahs. There are no rooms, just suites and the smallest are 99 sqm big and boast a huge window, more a wall of glass, opening up to Ago Bay. The design reminds strongly of the rooms in Aman Tokyo. Amanemu means “Peace” (Aman) and “Joy” (Emu) and indeed the whole place seems to make you calm and relaxed. And then there is this Onsen-thing. Japanese like to sit in real hot thermal water, they call Onsen, and feel the heat. Two spa pavillions on more than 2000 sqm and a 33 meter pool provide an Onsen experience deluxe. Amanemu is built around thermal springs of the Ise Shima National Park. Neighbouring Amanemu, the 18-hole Nemu Golf Club enjoys one of the most beautiful settings in Japan.The restaurants spoils guests with fresh produce from Ise-Shima, including Matsusaka Wagyu beef and prized seafood such as spiny lobster – also offered in salt crust – and abalone from Ago Bay. All in all Amanemu is a possibility to get a bit closer to Japan`s spiritual traditions. A visit of the Ise Grand shrine – which is a complex of different shrines in reality – is a must. This shrine was established 1700 years ago and every 20 years it is demolished and reerected to symbolize the circle of life and death, the renewal of nature. If you are bold and want to try a Japanese breakfast instead of a western one you could choose the Ise Jingu shrine breakfast which is inspired by the breakfast of the monks in the Grand Ise Shrine. Or you could try Mr. Paddington`s Onsen experiment: Will you slowly turn into a red lobster sitting in a Japanese bath? Just to let you know: The temperature of an Onsen is between 39 to 42 degrees Celsius (102°F to 107.5°F).

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Best Time
April – May. But as the pool is hot, really hot, all seasons have their charm.
Best Rate
From 850 Euro off seasons, from around 2000 Euro high season

Indicative – subject to change.

Best Room
All suites and villas are fine. Nagi Suite has the best uninterrupted view of Ago Bay .
Getting there
We recommend to take the Kintetsu train from Nagoya or Kyoto to Shima station (aorund 2 hours). Then the Aman staff will pick you up. The car ride is complimentary and takes about 20 minutes.
Best Excursion

Have lunch with an Ama diver. Remember the James Bond-movie “You Only Live Twice” where OO7 met Ama divergirls in Bikini? Well, they were not real. But you can meet a real one, a free-diver-woman who makes her living collecting shellfish, seaweed and sea urchin from the seabed. No bikini though. Visit an amagoya – a diver’s hut – for a special Amanemu lunch. Arranged by the hotel.

Good for Children
There is a kids academy for children between 4 and 12. But in general more recommended for adults.
Value for Money
As all Aman hotels painfully expensive but worth the money.
Worst Thing
Some guests claim Amanemu is far away from anything and could get boaring.

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