Sintra, the summer residence of the Portuguese kings for almost 500 years, 25 kilometers from Lisbon in the hilly Serra de Sintra. Why did people like Bill Clinton or Margaret Thatcher stay here in a small hotel with just eleven rooms and five suites? Of course, because of the history of the house, which was opened in 1764 by the British Lawrence Oram family and has seen a number of poets and writers as guests, of whom Lord Byron, was probably the most famous. Lawrence’s Hotel is also the oldest hostel still in operation in Portugal and Spain, although it must be noted that in these 300 years there were also phases in which the hotel was closed and even left to decay. But for anyone who loves hotels with a long history, the Lawrence is a jackpot.

But the Lawrence is also recommended for discerning travelers looking for a good hotel in Sintra because of its very central location and flair. It is around a five-minute drive to the train station, and the royal summer residence, the Palácio Nacional de Sintra, is a five-minute walk away. The Lawrence claims five stars, which is a little ambitious, but even if it cannot offer a swimming pool, it still exudes a lot of charm. The rooms and suites facing the garden have a beautiful view of the Sintra forest, and on the Forrest Terrace you can sit in the garden, enjoy a cup of tea and peace and quiet. The latter is not a given in the tourist hotspot of Sintra, which has more than half a million visitors every year. Speaking of tea: There is also good afternoon tea, very British with scones and salmon sandwiches (for 42.50 euros). The food in the restaurant (breakfast, lunch and dinner) is quite good, with homemade bread and cakes, for example. The bar is also open late in the evening.

The rooms have charm, but are not really five-star level. Bathrooms with shower curtains are just one example. But the prices are much more moderate and you have more of a feeling of being a well-equipped time traveler, away from the crowds and the impersonality of large hotels. But it should be noted: there are eiderdown duvets, air conditioning (in every room), satellite TV, and comfortable armchairs and free WiFi. If you want to relax from the stress of tourism, you can also have massages; there is a spa room. A one-hour full-body massage costs 70 euros. Also nice: the library room. The hotel  offers “experiences”, such as a fado concert night with the singer Liliana Martins on certain days, literature tours (Sintra through the eyes of the Portuguese poet Eça de Queiroz), you can rent a bike (4 hours for 10 euros), there are jazz nights, etc.

Overall, highly recommended, especially if you like small hotels and have a sense of history.